One late summer afternoon, I was walking to a popular tequila and mezcal bar, when I stopped at a curiosity shop along the way. There were multiple taxidermy animal head mounts above the entrance.
Further in, I found desiccated mammals, costumed reptiles, unusual vegetation, fossils, and copper sculptures inspired by science fiction fantasies. There was even a section for books of witchcraft and magic, and Dystopian art.
Little did I know the universe was pelting me with clues along the way about my upcoming cocktail adventure.
A Lady Walks into a Bar
I found the bar and scored a seat next to the fire pit. A quick glance at the liquor shelves caught an impressive collection of mezcals. But I came in here for one in particular – the Montelobos Mezcal de Pechuga.
For those of you who don’t already know, “pechuga” in Spanish means “breast”. As in, raw chicken or turkey breast was used in the making of this fine beverage. Yum!
Speaking of animal meat hanging overhead
Distillers are very particular in their process to create an impressive batch of mezcal, which is why many are double or triple distilled. For some, the distillation takes place in a traditional clay and bamboo still. Others use a copper pot, similar to that used to make whiskies and brandies. Distillery visitors wearing perfume or perfumed soaps are not allowed near the still, since the fragrances may disrupt or contaminate the process.
A mezcal de pechuga is fairly unique and quite difficult to find, traditionally prepared for friends and family on special occasions. Also, while tequila is required to be distilled from blue agaves, mezcals can be made with different types of agaves, usually espadin. This may be because espadin’s flavor is mellower, less harsh than other agaves.
First, local fruits, herbs and spices are added into the mezcal’s final distillation, to mellow out the agave’s smoky earthiness. Next (drumroll please), the raw protein is added to the process. A whole raw chicken or turkey breast – skinned and washed – is hung in the still above the batch. Other raw meats have also been used, such as deer, lamb, rabbit and iguana.
Naturally, you’re thinking, “Hang on! RAW MEAT to make liqour??”
Yes. The mezcal’s vapors go through the raw meat, and intermingle with its essence, before it returns to a liquid form. The meat’s savory element is added to the sweetness of the fruit and pungency of the herbs and spices. This process creates balance, keeping any single ingredient from overpowering the mezcal.
Yeah, but…RAW MEAT??
In case you are still wondering – and I know you are, after the raw chicken/turkey/deer/lamb/rabbit/iguana is closed in along with the other mezcal ingredients, the extreme heat and steam from the distillation process cooks the raw meat, which kills the harmful bacteria. So nope, no salmonella in your shot of mezcal de pechuga. Relax and enjoy!
In addition to flavor-balancing, collagen from the meat dripping into the mezcal as it cooks adds an oily richness. For those of you into fat-washed cocktails, this is similar to that “fatty mouthfeel”.
The proper way to drink mezcal de pechuga is straight, no ice. With each sip of the Montelobos, the smokiness and spices were there, but not overwhelming, thanks to being mellowed by the raw meat that hung above the mezcal batch. Before that, I sniffed it several times and didn’t detect any strong aromas, definitely no raw meat smell. Otherwise, this would never touch my lips.
Cheers!
Sources:
The Drunken Botanist by Amy Stewart, copyright 2013
Store pictures taken at Paxton Gate in NW Portland
Mezcal bar pictures taken at The Matador in NW Portland
What is Mezcal de Pechuga
Espadin agave photo from Travel Distilled
Still shot of mezcal de pechuga process – raw chicken hanging in still, courtesy of Distiller video “What is Pechuga Mezcal? Everything You Need to Know”
Pic of cooked raw turkey breast, courtesy of Del Maguey
Mezcal Reviews
Raw Chicken Pechuga Mezcal
Blind Tasting Mezcal de Pechuga